Dina Yuspita Sari, Ari Widiyantoro, Andi Hairil Alimuddin


Brazilwood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) has traditionally been used as a food dye, health drink and as a traditional medicine. Natural dyestuff component of brazilwood can be utilized in cosmetic formulations, such as lipstick. This study aimed to find out the right eluent to obtain brazilin from brazilwood and to determine the quality of lipstick formula using ethanol extact, ethanol fraction, and brazilin isolate. Brazilwood simplicia is macerated with 96 % ethanol, then partitioned using n-hexane. The ethanol fraction was then applied using vacuum column chromatography with silica gel 60 as stationary phase and various eluent: chloroform, chloroform:methanol (5:1), and methanol. This step yielded 5 fractions (FC, FCM1, FCM2, and FM). FM isolate was separated using gravitation column chromatography with silica gel 60 as stationary phase and dichloromethane:ethyl acetate (1:1) and methanol as eluent, yielded 5 fractions (FDEA1-5). FDEA 5 isolate then separated using TLC preparative with dichloromethane:ethyl acetate (1:1) as eluent, yielded 7 isolates (S1-7). S2 isolate was separated again using TLC preparative with the best eluent (chloroform:ethyl acetate (3.5:6.5)) yielded 4 isolates (SS1-4), then purity test was performed. SS1 isolate were characterized using NMR-1H showed a proton chemical shift in aromatic area at 6.3-8.5 ppm and hydroxyl proton at 9.5 ppm. Extracts, fractions, and brazilin isolates from brazilwood are then formulated into lipstick. Evaluation of lipstick included ageing stability, organoleptic test, melting point test, pH test, breaking point test, homogeneity test, and acceptance test. The results showed that the five formula of lipstick produce color with a soft texture, had a melting point, pH, hardness and homogeneity that qualify according to standard requirements and the most favored formulas by the panelists are formulas FII (10 % extract dissolved in aquadest) and FIV (10 % fraction dissolved in aquadest)

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